Glue Down Flooring
Installing Glue Down Flooring, isn't difficult, to do. But, requires a lot of awareness, and cleaning along the way. Get your knee pads, for this one.
Like anything, else. Let's be sure that our subfloor is well prepared. If you need help with this part, please refer back to the subfloor preparation, on the Hardwood Floor Installation page.
Tip: If, you have to fill in any low spot, use a subfloor skimcoat or leveling compound like a Henry's product. Perform a moisture check in this area. We don't want our flooring to be ruined.
Materials needed:
Engineered Hardwood Flooring: round up to the nearest full carton to cover waste
Flooring adhesive: recommended for glue down flooring, moisture cure polyurethane flooring adhesive, not latex
Adhesive remover : recommended, Bostik adhesive remover - best product - this will make clean-up easy, compared to other products
Rags: to use with glue remover
1/4 v-notched trowel: This large notch will wear down during usage, when used over concrete, will handle 500s.f. You can use a small notch over wood, which won't wear down as fast.
Rubber mallet
Hammer
Flooring puller: or flooring jack, if obtainable. You can also pick-up a hardwood floor installation kit, which comes with spacers, tapping block, and puller. Be sure the puller is made, from a quality material. These cheaper ones will bend on you.
Tapping block : You can use scrap pieces for this.
Chalk line
1/4 spacers You can use spacers up to 3/8". These can be purchased or you can make your own. Just purchase square wooden square stock and cut them to 2" lengths.
Flush cut saw Under cut your trims and jams at doorways. Multi-max or simular tools are good, for this task.
Pencil
Masking tape
Tape measure
6 ft straight edge
150 lb. floor roller rental tool
Chop saw miter saw
Table saw
After you've, cleaned and prep the floor.
Note: It is not necessary to install glue down flooring, perpendicular, to the joist over wooden subfloor. If, you have a plank board subfloor, be sure to install a layer of 3/8 plywood, over it, before you begin. Also, it is not necessary to remove your baseboards, although, you can if you like.
1. 2 points make a straight line. Begin by measuring 36" from each corner, of your starting wall. Then chalk a line. You can spray the line with, hairspray, to keep it from wiping away.
2. Start spreading, your adhesive, onto the subfloor. Work in small areas, amounts where you can do the hardwood floor installation within 15-20 minutes.
Tip: When spreading glue, use the trowel in a plowing motion (snow plow). Hold the trowel at a 45 degree angle (floor up), push glue along, with a slight angle, like a snow plow, you'll be able to direct the glue, away or towards you.
3. Install your first row of glue down flooring, varying the lengths as you go along. By aligning the groove edge, along with your chalked line. Be sure to check, for movements or row shifts. It's very important, to keep, your row straight, as possible for the first 2ft of rows, when installing glue down flooring.
If you removed your baseboards, be sure to allow 1/4"- 3/8" expansion gap. Use the flooring puller, to pull your cut piece tight. You do this, by placing it, on the cut edge, then with a hammer, tap it tight. The tab on a low quality puller, will bend, during excessive usage. If, possible, use a quality one.
If, you did not remove the baseboards, make sure the engineered hardwood flooring is cut tight.
4. Start, the next row, by placing a board, in front, groove to tongue. Lay the board down. Carefully, pull the board towards the first row, you may tap it with the rubber mallet, while you're pulling them together. Do this until the boards are tight together. Apply a piece of tape, over the joint, to prevent the engineered hardwood flooring from seperating. Check to make sure that, the first row is still align, with your chalked line.
Repeat, this step, varying the engineered hardwood flooring lengths, until you complete the row. Apply glue as needed. Then repeat process, until you've completed the glue down flooring, about 18"-24" of flooring depth. Clean off, any adhesive, that gets on the surface of the flooring, with Bostik remover. Make reference check to your wall, to keep a parallel distance, then use the straight edge, to make sure your rows are straight. Also, make a visual inspection. If it doesn't look straight, fix the hardwood floor installation, before moving on.
5.Apply foot traffic, in the glue down flooring area that you've completed. This will help, press the engineered hardwood flooring tight to the adhesives. Place a couple of bundles on top as weights.
6.Complete hardwood floor installation on opposite side, from groove side to starting wall. As, you get closer to the wall, use the floor puller, or a woodflooring jack to pull the boards tight.
Be sure to make reference checks to your starting wall, measuring to the corners.
Maintain a parallel, distance. Use a straight edge to make sure rows are straight. Complete the hardwood floor installation in this section.
7. Cover completed area with the empty engineered hardwood floor cartons, be sure to flatten them. Then take the roller, roll over the entire completed area. Be careful and don't accidentally mark up your new wooflooring. Roll lengthwise, then widthwise. Check to make sure the joints in the floor, are still tight. Any, gaps should be fixed.
Tip: If, you have trouble tightening any gaps in the middle of the engineered hardwood flooring.
Depending, on the size of your room. You can take a couple pieces 2x4x6
you can cut to a more specific size, as needed, leave a few inch extra, on each one.
Place one end, of 1, against, the tongue of the floor(put a scrap piece, in front).
Then place 1 end of the other piece against your wall or baseboards, place a 2 ft. board in front of the wall or baseboards to prevent from any damage. Stand it in an A-frame, butt the ends together, then push down. This will apply pressure towards the floor, pressing them tight. You can also tap down with a hammer, to assist it. Becareful, that the 2x4 does not, slip off the woodfloor and damaging it.
8. Complete the glue down flooring installation for the remainder of room. Roll out the air bubbles of the woodfloor everytime you complete 3ft. of rows. Remove, all adhesive residue, and keep flooring covered with emtpy cartons. This will prevent any glue that's stuck under your foot, from getting onto the engineered hardwood flooring.
That's all there is to a glue down flooring. Key thing is to keep the hardwood flooring installation, tight, straight, and clean.
Enjoy your glue down flooring!
